If you haven't already, I encourage you to check in with your local state college Extension office (hopefully there's someone manning the phones/email), or their website for best advice. If you're in the U.S., you should also consider searching for arborist associations under your state. or Canada, your Extension (or master gardener provincial program) may have a list of local recommended arborists on file. A competent arborist should be happy to walk you through how to care for the trees on your property and answer any questions. Here is how you can arrange a consult with a local ISA arborist in your area (NOT a 'tree company guy' unless they're ISA certified) or a consulting arborist for an on-site evaluation. Thus, it is important that the tree receives adequate water, especially during spring and summer months. Drought conditions increase wetwood impact on the tree and can lead to cambial death. Do not apply wound paste, paint or sealer to tree damage, with the exception of oaks that absolutely need pruned during oak wilt season and if you're in oak wilt territory. NEVER cut into the branch collar when pruning at the stem no flush cuts. Here's an excellent pdf from Purdue Univ. Proper (and in the case of mature trees, minimal) pruning. If you have a tree circle with constructed bricks or similar, remove them. A mulch ring maintains moisture in the soil, reduces the amount of heat carried to the roots, adds nutrients, and a dozen other benefits. Turfgrass is the #1 enemy of trees, directly competing with trees for water and nutrients, of which they are voracious consumers. Maintaining a mulch ring 2-3" deep and out as far as you care to go around the trunks of your trees will work wonders, over time, for a tree's vitality. Planting too deeply usually accompanied by over/improper mulching are the top reasons why transplanted trees fail to thrive and die early. I do not exaggerate when I say that this is an epidemic problem. Mulch and soil should never touch the trunks of trees because it causes stem rot, insect damage and girdling roots. Trees planted too deeply suffer because their roots cannot get proper nutrients, water and oxygen. Make sure your trees' root flares are exposed and above grade and are not over-mulched, and it looks like you definitely need to address this issue for this tree. The best things you can do to help is to relieve stress on the tree: It is not a death sentence sometimes trees actually recover from it, or you'll see the tree seep year after year. Yes, this is bacterial wetwood and it occurs on a wide variety of trees. I read online that cutting out the affected portion of wood would help the tree heal,ĭO NOT DO THAT. The best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago, the second best time is now! Posts only involving cannabis may be removed. Help us all learn! Please explain your tree ID suggestions! Repeat offender posts will be removed and you will be banned. Rule 3: Karma farming via (numerous) posts of non-OC content of the sort you find on low-res image search/gallery websites OR top reposts, will NOT be tolerated. Bans may be issued at moderator discretion for particularly flagrant violations of this rule. This includes but is not limited to memes and politically charged content. Rule #2: Posts not directly related to trees, their related plants (eg: woodland), conservation, or generally not in line with the purpose of the subreddit will be removed at moderator discretion. Share your favorite tree pictures or ask questions here! Do you have a tree health question? Please see these Posting Guidelines for effective posting in the tree subs!
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